When the folks from the focused their attention on Mexico last year, they found a tiny taqueria in Mexico City that turned out to be a culinary gold mine.
had been an institution in the Colonia San Rafael, serving a limited variety of beef tacos wrapped in handmade tortillas.
The small menu that founder/chef Juan Hernández González created when he opened the taqueria in 1968 has remained unchanged under his son, Mario Hernández Alonso.
That simplicity and purity of ingredients earned El Califa de León a Michelin star and a footnote in foodie history.
For the first time in the nearly 100 years that the Michelin Guide has been awarding restaurants its coveted Michelin Star, a taqueria had the honor.
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On Sept. 4, Chef Hernández Alonso will bring his taqueria to Tucson for an 11-day pop-up residency in the long-closed restaurant space at 994 E. University Blvd. The space was formerly home for more than a decade to The Fat Greek, which was later rechristened Pelio Greek Taverna & Catering. before Fullylove’s, a comfort food restaurant, took the space in 2021.
That restaurant closed two summers ago, and the building has remained empty since.
The pop-up was coordinated by Brian Krupski, founder and CEO of , a safety-driven mobile platform advertised as a “digital concierge for Mexico travel services and safety resources.†The app, created in Phoenix, includes features that help minimize risks while traveling in Mexico.
This is GrinGo’s second ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥ pop-up. A similar event was held in Tempe in May.
Krupski said the event, being held from 3 to 9 p.m. weekdays and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays from Sept. 4-14, celebrates a newly signed Memorandum of Understanding between GrinGO and Mexico City. The goal is to highlight Mexico City tourism, where taco tours rank among the city’s most popular cultural experiences, Krupski said.
The culinary pop-up is co-hosted with the Agave House, across the street at 943 E. University.
“For 56 years, El Califa de León in Mexico City has been considered a coveted taqueria and best kept local secret. We’re excited to bring the taste of Mexico City back to ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥,†Krupski said in a written statement. “This collaboration with El Califa de León and the Agave House gives ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥ns another rare opportunity to experience one of the best tacos in the world — without leaving the state — right here in the heart of Tucson.â€
For more information, visit .
GrinGO is available at the Apple Store and Google Play.
The top stories from the ÃÛÁÄÖ±²¥ Daily Star’s Caliente section for this week.
Contact reporter Cathalena E. Burch at cburch@tucson.com. On Bluesky @Starburch
Cathalena E. Burch
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